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Cowboy boots refer to a specific style of riding
boot, historically worn by cowboys. They have a high heel, rounded
to pointed toe, high shaft, and, traditionally, no lacing. Cowboy
boots are normally made from cowhide leather but are also sometimes
made from "exotic" skins such as alligator, snake, ostrich, lizard,
eel, elephant, sting ray, elk, buffalo, and the like.
There are two basic styles of cowboy boots, western (or classic),
and roper. The western style is distinguished by a tall boot shaft,
going to at least mid-calf, with an angled "cowboy" heel, usually
over one inch high. A slightly lower, still angled, "walking" heel
is also common. Although western boots can be customized with a wide
variety of toe shapes, the classic design is a narrowed, usually
pointed, toe.
A newer design, the "roper" style, has a short boot shaft the stops
above the ankle but before the middle of the calf, with a very low
and squared-off "roper" heel, shaped to the sole of the boot,
usually less than one inch high. Roper boots are usually made with
rounded toes, but, correlating with style changes in streetwear,
styles with a squared toe are seen. The roper style is also
manufactured in a lace-up design which often fits better around the
ankle and is less likely to slip off, but these two features also
create safety issues for riding.
History
The cowboy boot is descended from the Hessian boot, which was common
among cavalry in Europe in the 18th century. This style, along with
the Wellington boot (a shorter but similarly cavalry-oriented boot)
was popular with early cowboys. The style commonly known as the
cowboy boot appeared in the late 19th century, with the higher heel,
more elaborate stitching, and decorative cutouts distinguishing them
from the military issue boots that preceded them.
The boot was taken up by bootmakers in the cattle ranching areas of
Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas. The two most renowned bootmakers of the
era were Charles Hyer of Hyer Brothers Boots in Olathe, Kansas, and
H. J. "Big Daddy Joe" Justin of Justin Boots in Spanish Fort, Texas
and later Nocona, Texas. The tradition of the cowboy boot also
continues in Mexico, especially in the States of Jalisco,
Guanajuato, Nuevo Leon.
Design
Comparison of the "cowboy" heel and the lower "walking" heel. Both
designs are angled slightly, different from the squared-off "roper"
heelWhen mounting and, especially, dismounting, the slick, treadless
leather sole of the boot allowed easy insertion and removal of the
foot into the stirrup of the Western saddle. The original toe was
rounded and a bit narrowed at the toe to make it easier to insert.
While an extremely pointed toe is a modern stylization appearing in
the 1940s, an extremely pointed toe is not more helpful and if
extreme, can be uncomfortable in a working boot.
While in the saddle, the tall heel minimized the risk of the foot
sliding forward through the stirrup, which could be life threatening
if it happened and the rider were to be unseated. There was often
considerable risk that a cowboy would fall from a horse, both
because he often had to ride young, unpredictable horses, but also
because he had to do challenging ranch work in difficult terrain,
the often meant that he could accidentally become unseated by a
quick-moving horse. If a rider fell from a horse but had a boot get
caught in the stirrup, there arose a very great risk that the horse
could panic and run off, dragging the cowboy, causing severe injury
and possible death.
The tall leather shaft of the boot helped to hold the boot in place
in the absence of lacing. The tall shaft, comfortably loose fit, and
lack of lacing all were additional features that helped prevent a
cowboy from being dragged since his body weight could pull his foot
out of the boot if he fell off while the boot remained stuck in the
stirrup.
While mounted, the shaft also protected the leg and ankle from
rubbing on the stirrup leathers, as well as fending off brush and
thorns, particularly if also worn with chaps or chinks. While
dismounted, the shaft helped protect the leg and foot from rocks,
brush, thorns, and rattlesnakes. In wet weather or creek crossings,
the high tops helped prevent the boot from filling with mud and
water.
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